Savoring Spain
by Chevalier Wesley Jefferies
Among the culinary adventures and gastronomic masterpieces that members and guests of the Bailliage of Greater Washington, D.C. have experienced over its long and rich history, the Taberna del Alabardero is a special place with a unique backstory. Taberna was first established in Madrid by Father Luis Lezama, a Basque Catholic priest, in 1974 as a charitable mission aimed at reintegrating juvenile delinquents into Spanish society through vocational training in the culinary arts during a period of economic and political transition.
As Spain navigated the social and cultural upheavals of the 1970s and 80s, the restaurant evolved beyond its humble origins to become a stalwart bastion of Spanish heritage and tradition. Its unexpected success as a restaurant later led to expansion to other locations across Spain, as well as a prestigious culinary school in Seville. In 1989, the Spanish priest-turned-restaurateur “discovered” the New World and opened a location in the heart of Washington, D.C.


As members and guests of the bailliage arrived for a much-anticipated dinner at Taberna on the warm spring evening of March 14, 2024, they were greeted with a glass of Hiruzta Txakolia 2023, a sparkling wine from a south-facing vineyard in the heart of Basque Country. With sharp notes of citrus and grapefruit balanced with a gentle effervescence, this Basque favorite was refreshing spritz with a long finish that opened appetites and inspired lively mingling. A series of tapas and pintxos were circulated including Jamon Iberico con Picos, slices of cured ham served with small, dried breadsticks; Tostas de Matrimonio con Emulsion de Pipiranna, small toasted bread slices topped with anchovies and a traditional vegetable salad made from chopped tomatoes, onions, and peppers; and Croquetas de Jamón Iberico, deep-fried bread crumb balls filled with cured ham and a mayonnaise-like sauce made from egg and Spanish olive oil. This was followed by Chupitos de Gazpacho, shots of gazpacho, which made for a refreshing note on which to transition from the reception to dinner.

As members and guests seated themselves, Chef Josu Zubikarai made an early surprise appearance to introduce himself and present the first course of the evening: Arroz Negro con Carabineros y Aioli, a paella made prepared with squid ink, red prawns, and aioli sauce. This iconic dish, which is traditionally prepared in a large pan and served family-style, showcased the depth and complexity of Spanish cuisine as the tender grains of rice, colored by squid ink, danced in baroque harmony with tender and succulent red prawns or carabineros while a creamy and generous aioli provided a targeted counterpoint of flavors and textures.
A Bodegas Exopto Horizonte de Exopto Blanco 2021, a white Rioja made from an intricate blend of Viura and Garnacha Blanca grapes, provided a subtle companion for the rich and complex flavors of the Arroz Negro. This white Rioja’s gently crisp mineral notes, provided by the limestone soils of northern Spain’s highlands, cut through the creamy texture of the aioli while its citrus-forward nose elevated and flattered the richness of the squid ink and red prawn.

In the second course, attendees were treated to a Merluza en Salsa Verde con Almejas. Tender and flaky fillets of fresh hake, a deep-sea cousin of the cod fish, pirouetted among briny clams in a traditional green sauce made from parsley, garlic, and olive oil. A Bodegas Avancia Godello Old Vines 2021, a Galician white wine, provided a lively and expressive pairing of flavors and textures as fruit-forward notes of pink grapefruit, sweet almond, and dried orange peels playfully danced with the soft and silky texture of the hake while a sea-kissed mineral finish enticingly melded with the clams and green sauce.

The crescendo of the evening’s culinary dance was achieved with the third course, Cochinillo Confitado con Manzana en Texturas, a tender confit of suckling pig in sweet and savory green apple sauce made from alternating textures of velvety puree and crisp, caramelized slices. To prepare this traditional dish, the suckling pig is first seasoned with a blend of aromatic herbs and spices, such as garlic, thyme, and rosemary, to enhance its flavor. It is then slowly cooked using the confit method, which involves gently simmering the meat in its own fat at a low temperature for an extended period of time. This slow cooking process allows the meat to become incredibly tender and flavorful, while also preserving its natural juices and moisture. The sauce is prepared with fresh green apples that are cooked down with a touch of spice and sugar until they reach a smooth and velvety puree consistency with some crisp caramelized apple slices introduced into the sauce to add depth. The suckling pig is then carefully plated with a generous serving of the sauce, creating a stunning visual presentation.
Paired with a La Val Finca de Arantei Albarino 2022, strong notes of lemon zest and fresh herbs charged through the fat of the suckling pig while lively hints of dried nectarines chased and embraced the alternating crispness and velvety creaminess of the green apple sauce.

The grand finale was achieved with the Canutillo Relleno con Crema Pastelera de Cabrales, a puff pastry filled with a sweet cream made from a Spanish goat milk blue cheese that was paired with Emilio Lustau Moscatel Emilio Sherry NV. The sherry’s notes of orange rind, peach, and dates intricately blended with the crisp and buttery flakes of the puff pastry and the sharp tang and creamy sweetness of the cream cheese in an intimate and passionate sway.

As tables were cleared for what appeared to be the last course, the bailliage delighted in an unexpected closing treat as Lavazza espresso was served a mix of butter cookies, known as mantecaditos, and powdered sugar cookies, known as polvorones. As members and guests sipped their espresso and nibbled on their mignardises, Bailli Judy Mazza presented a commemorative Chaîne plate to Chef Josu Zubikarai and a Chaîne wine coaster to Chief Sommelier Alvaro Correas and thanked them both for putting together such an astonishing and memorable culinary adventure.