Recent DC Events

56th Grand Induction & Holiday Gala

by Bill Babsh, Vice Chargé de Presse

The Bailliage of Greater Washington, DC, inducted new members, presented numerous awards, and celebrated the festive season at its annual black-tie gala on December 12, 2023. The Willard InterContinental hotel, with its opulent Beaux Arts grandeur and classical Christmas decorations, provided a picture-perfect setting for the elegant evening.

A glass of Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée NV welcomed each member and guest. This notable wine is composed of over 85% Grand and Premier crus of the three classic Champagne varieties including 60% pinot noir – an unusually high proportion that is a signature of Bollinger’s style. Blending with reserve wines that have been aged for up to twelve years make this a truly exquisite Champagne and a fitting start to the evening.

As members and guests mingled with friends old and new, white-gloved servers passed sophisticated hors d’oeuvres – bluefin tuna tartare with almond oil and American caviar presented in a black sesame cone; panko-crusted lamb “lollipops” with soy honey glaze, and tartlettes of gorgonzola mousse with candied pecan.

Attendees took their seats in the Willard’s Peacock Lounge for the induction and awards ceremonies. The bailliage was particularly honored to have Bailli Délégué des États-Unis Bertrand de Boutray (the Chaîne’s national president) serve as the inducting officer for the evening and to have Bailli Provincial de Mid-Atlantic Jeffrey Vasser participate in the ceremonies.

The ceremonies began with the induction of seven new members. As Bailli Judy Mazza called each one forward, Dame de la Chaîne Peggy Floria placed the new member’s ribbon on them. Bertrand laid a 200+ year old sword on their shoulder and enthusiastically declared them (in their choice of English or French) to be a Chevalier or Dame de la Chaîne. After signing the membership Gold Page, inductees received bailliage swag, including the bailliage pin and 50^th anniversary pin for their ribbons and the bailliage’s unique challenge coin.

Elevations followed the inductions. Luca De Marchis, who had recently been promoted from Executive Chef to Director of Food and Beverage of the Willard, was elevated to Maître Hôtelier. Four members of the bailliage were installed as officers –Juan Loza as Vice Chargé de Missions, Enzo Livia as Vice Conseiller Culinaire, Mark Lewonowski as Vice Conseiller Gastronomique, and Stacy Wharam as Vice Chancelier-Argentier.

As is Judy’s tradition, she offered a special welcome to members who had transferred into the Bailliage of Greater Washington: Will Perry, the Bailli Honoraire of Johannesburg, South Africa, who recently moved to the Washington area from Texas (and in addition to joining the bailliage, has been elevated to Chambellan in the Mid-Atlantic region); and Chevalier Charles Raimondi, who was originally inducted into the Bailliage of Ankara, Turkey, in 2003 and is now back in the U.S. She also welcomed newly reinstated Chevalier Corey Stewart back to the bailliage.

Judy next presented several awards to members of the bailliage. She began by congratulating Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Honoraire Michael McHenry on achieving the rank of Officier Commandeur marking his 30 years of membership in the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. She presented the Chaîne’s Fortitude Award to seven members recognizing their success in inviting new members to join the organization.

For the past several years, Judy has presented a bottle of Champagne from the bailliage’s cellar as a tangible “thank you” to a member who has made a particularly significant contribution to the bailliage. Judy announced that this local award is being named in memory of Vice Conseiller Culinaire and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Honoraire François Dionot, who passed away in September 2023. François joined the Chaîne in the 1970s and was a pillar in the bailliage. As the proprietor of L’Académie de Cuisine he trained a generation of chefs for the Washington region and beyond. His dedication to the Chaîne was steadfast; at his request, he was buried with his Chaîne decorations. Judy shared heartfelt memories of François that elicited both a tear and a smile from those who knew him. The bailliage was honored to have François’ widow, Patrice, and daughter, Clarice, in attendance. Clarice spoke eloquently of her father’s involvement with the Chaîne before she and Patrice joined Judy in presenting the inaugural François Dionot award to Chevalier Wesley Jefferies in appreciation of his wonderfully written articles and his technical expertise that help the bailliage record the history of its events on its website. Patrice and Clarice Dionot were each given a Washington Bailliage challenge coin to symbolize the bailliage’s close and longstanding relationship with the Dionot family and the contributions that François had made over the decades.

The next award was the Bronze Société Mondiale du Vin Medal of Honor, which Judy presented to Vice Chargé de Missions Juan Loza. Juan received this award in recognition of his assuming the management of the bailliage’s wine cellar, ensuring the proper storage and inventory of the wine as well as the coordination and logistics of ensuring that libations arrive at events.

The (almost) final award of the evening was the prestigious Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Bronze Star of Excellence, which Judy presented to Vice Chancelier-Argentier Stacey Wharam. When Judy announced a few months earlier that the Argentier (treasurer) position would be opening, Stacey graciously and enthusiastically stepped forward. Stacey is busy beyond belief as owner of several restaurants in Old Town Alexandria, so her willingness to take on the essential but largely unseen responsibilities of Argentier is especially noteworthy.

Bertrand then stepped up to the podium and surprised Bailli Judy Mazza with the Fortitude Circle of Excellence Award. Bertrand commended Judy for her exemplary success in sustaining and expanding bailliage membership during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic when in-person gatherings were not possible. Judy’s innovative approach focused on delivering to members’ homes items ranging from cheese to caviar to restaurant-caliber multi-course dinners complete with cocktails and wine. Rather than in-person events, participants gathered on Zoom with culinary experts and chefs for informative and delicious evenings. Thanks to Judy’s creative leadership, the bailliage maintained a full schedule events throughout the pandemic, prompting several individuals to join the Chaîne even before attending their first in-person event.

With ceremonies completed, attendees moved to the Willard’s opulent Crystal Room for a gala dinner prepared by Executive Chef Gyo Santa, Banquet Chef Mauricio Manzano, and Pastry Chef Sabri Uzun.

Dinner began on a sophisticated note with a seared New England scallop salad. Tender and sweet scallops were presented with assorted beets, green apple, mâché, and frisée and finished with Calvados vinaigrette and beet tuille. Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent 2020 was a great match. This 100% chardonnay is from 45-year-old vines in the five-acre Vaulorent parcel at the northern end of the Chablis region of France. Its light palate, classic minerality, and subtle richness nicely mirrored the freshness of the salad and savory seafood.

The evening’s second course was wonderfully indulgent. Butter-poached Maine lobster was served with parsnip purée, a parsnip crisp, and morel mushroom sauce, finished with lobster essence. The gentle acidity and complex aromas of the François Carillon Puligny Montrachet 2016 created an exquisite pairing.

Red rhubarb sorbet with strawberry granité was a delightful and flavorful intermezzo, refreshing palates for the evening’s main course, Muscovy duck breast Apicius style. The dish is named for Marcus Gavius Apicus, the famed Roman epicure from the first century CE believed to have compiled the world’s first cookbook. The chef’s luxurious version featured tender duck breast with fois gras poêle, potato dauphinoise, poached fig, and duck demi-glace. Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2000 was an outstanding pairing. Comprising 90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc with 18 months of aging in oak barrels, this Bordeaux wine’s gentle earthiness and firm tannins superbly accentuated the sophisticated and indulgent preparation of the dish.

Before dessert, Bertrand and Judy, along with Mark Lewonowski and Juan Loza, donned the traditional robes and floppy hats of the Société Mondiale du Vin to conduct an induction into the Chaîne’s wine and spirits society. In the lighthearted ceremony, five inductees raised their glass of Champagne as they toasted their new membership in the Société.

Pastry chef Sabri Uzun’s mango, yozu, and pineapple pavlova was a superb finale to the fantastic dinner. The presentation was visually stunning, and the varied textures and tropical flavors were an extravagant mid-winter treat. From the Loire Valley, the Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, 2017, nicely complemented the exotic flavors. The Quarts de Chaume appellation has been known for sweet wines from the chenin blanc grape for over 1,000 years. The grapes are harvested as late as possible, allowing plenty of the “noble rot” that intensifies the sweetness and flavor of the resulting wine.

Before concluding the evening and wishing all happy holidays, Judy expressed the bailliage’s appreciation to the Willard’s culinary team for the outstanding dinner, and to the service staff for their gracious and attentive service. It was a grand conclusion to 2023, leaving attendees looking forward to gathering again for the Chaîne’s camaraderie of the table in the new year.