Recent DC Events

Savoring Puerto Rico in Virginia's Countryside

by Chevalier Wesley Jefferies

The Bailliage of Greater Washington is known for its delight in elegant and illuminating contrasts where the sophistication of black-tie galas easily coexists with culinary adventures that are experimental or inviting informal yet never compromise on the quality of the cuisine and the exquisite hospitality that Bailliage members and guests have come to know and expect. These events, known as ‘Chaîne on the Edge,’ represent a fundamental element in the character and reputation of the bailliage: a natural intellectual curiosity and instinctual willingness among its members to explore diverse culinary traditions that are rooted in traditions and passions presented in settings that go beyond the conventional fine dining experience.

So, when the opportunity arose for the bailliage to explore and expand its culinary horizons once again during its annual summer sojourn, members seized it with gusto. A local newspaper had published an enthusiastic review of an unassuming Puerto Rican food truck, Lechonera DMV, tucked away in a suburban parking lot. Intrigued, a few Bailliage members arranged an impromptu visit on World Chaîne Day. Members sampled food items from the regular and catering menus and discovered a gustatory kaleidoscope of robust, authentic, and delicious flavors.

The Bailliage of Greater Washington embarked on its annual summer sojourn to savor a feast prepared by Chef Richard Torres and Mario Ernest Corona Luiz and their legendary “Lechonera” crowd. The duo, who first crossed paths at Johnson and Wales University in Miami, have introduced a loving interpretation of Puerto Rican cuisine to the Washington D.C. area through their traveling food truck and catering company Lechonera DMV.

Chevalier Corey Stewart and his wife, Maria, generously hosted the gathering at their historic home in Woodbridge, Virginia. The estate includes a wedding and event venue known as Bel Air 1740 that offered a picturesque setting with a large, covered patio, climate-controlled interiors, and beautiful grounds with ample parking. The historic estate, on which George and Martha Washington were known to have once stayed during their honeymoon, provided the ideal backdrop where members and guests could mingle and enjoy the atmosphere amidst warm summer breezes.

With Latin music being spun by DJs Jamie Batres and his son Mauricio setting the atmosphere, arriving  members and their guests mingled at the bar where wines from the Bailliage’s private cellar were on offer, a curated selection that spoke to the group’s refined tastes. But the true allure lay in the beers—a carefully chosen quartet, each selected to pair with the afternoon’s Puerto Rican feast. There was the Alewerks Tavern Brown Ale from Williamsburg, Virginia, a deep, nutty brew with layers of chocolate and caramel, balanced by a hint of fruity hops. The Old Speckled Hen from England, rich and amber, offered a smooth, malty flavor with just enough bitterness to cleanse the palate. The Kronenbourg 1664 Blanc from France brought a refreshing note, its white wheat base laced with subtle citrus. And then there was the Winston Arctic Lager from Iceland, a crisp, hoppy creation with a bright, glacier-inspired aroma—a fitting nod to the unexpected.

With drinks in hand, the guests turned their attention to the meal. Presented in the style of a buffet, it allowed for a certain exploration, for tasting and retasting, as the chefs themselves—Richard Torres and Mario Ernesto Corona Ruiz—looked on, pleased to see their culinary vision realized. The lechon, or roasted suckling pig, was the star, its exterior crisped to perfection, the interior tender and succulent. The pollo asado (rotisserie chicken), with its savory skin and juicy meat, was a close second. Then there were the smoky and rich costillas en lena (wood grilled BBQ), with meat pulling away from the bone with ease. The longanizas (pork sausages), fragrant with spices, added another layer of depth, while the costillas deshuesadas; (char siu pork), coated in a sweet and tangy glaze, offered a contrast of flavors that was both surprising and satisfying.

The sides added creative depth and delicious levels to the feast. Roasted squash, or calabaza, brought warmth to the plate with sweet and nutty flavors. The arroz con gandules (rice and pigeon peas), earthy and comforting, provided a home-made ‘comfort food’ feel. The ensalada de granos (heirloom bean salad), fresh and vibrant, provided a summer brightness while the ensalada de papaya (green papaya slaw), with its crisp and tangy flavors, cut through the richness of the meats. The ensalada de coditos (fresh macaroni salad) and ensalada de papa (potato salad), with its creamy and silky textures, added an additional layer of comfort and homespun goodness. The showstopper among the sides, however, were the platanos en tentacion, or fried plantains, that with their sweet, anise-glazed exterior, wrapped in smoky and juicy bacon, expertly balanced the sweet and the savory in a way that was both uncommon and utterly irresistible.

The desserts provided a seductive finish. Each bite of the tres leches cakes was moist without being too loose and melted on the tongue in an inviting explosion of creamy tastes and spongey textures. The pinã colada tembleques, with smooth coconut notes, offered a tropical escape. But it was the flan, a traditional Hispanic custard dessert, that provided a breathtakingly finish. Topped with Amarena cherries and topped with a rich and velvety layer of caramel, it evoked the childhood experience of being spoiled and indulged by Hispanic grandparents.

As the afternoon drew to a close, Chevalier Stewart invited the bailliage on a tour of his magnificent estate where history lingered in every corner. It was fitting close to the afternoon, and a reminder of American history intersecting with the American dream, as so vividly embodied by the success story of Chef Richard Torres and Mario Ernest Corona Luiz and Lechonera DMV.  To commemorate the occasion, Bailli Judith Mazza presented the chefs with a Chaîne apron, a token of gratitude and a symbol of the social and culinary connection forged between the Bailliage and the Lechonera DMV—a connection born not just from shared tastes, but from a shared appreciation for the experience, the tradition, and the flavor of something truly extraordinary.

This event, like so many before it, was one that left an indelible impression on members and guests – of another summer spent in the company of good food, good drink, and good friends, in a place where history, tradition, and novel flavors and experiences came together in a way that felt both timeless and forward-looking.